Thoughts on Surfing – By Albert Camus

In the face of life’s inherent absurdity and the human struggle to find meaning, I, Albert Camus, propose an unconventional path to existential fulfillment—surfing. Allow me to elucidate why you should consider surfing as a hobby, a pursuit that aligns with the philosophy of the absurd and can provide you with a unique sense of purpose and freedom.

Embracing the Absurd

As I have philosophized, life is fundamentally absurd. We search for meaning in a world that often appears indifferent to our quest. Surfing, my dear friend, mirrors this absurdity. Riding the waves is a dance with the unpredictable forces of the ocean. It is an act of embracing the absurdity of existence. Just as we must confront the absurdity of life, we must confront the unpredictability of the sea. In this confrontation, there is liberation and truth.

The Freedom of the Ocean

Surfing offers a profound sense of freedom—a freedom that resonates with my ideas on rebellion and revolt. When you stand on your board and glide across the water, you rebel against the constraints of the everyday. The ocean becomes your canvas, and the waves your allies. In this act of rebellion, you assert your existence and freedom in the face of life’s absurdity.

Living in the Moment

In a world characterized by distractions and constant noise, surfing demands your full attention. It is a practice of living in the present, a mindfulness exercise that aligns with my philosophy of the “here and now.” The waves require your complete focus, grounding you in the immediate experience. In that moment, the absurdity of existence fades, and you find a rare sense of clarity and presence.

The Philosophy of Risk

Life is inherently risky, and the absurdity of our existence is amplified by the uncertainty of our fate. Surfing, my friend, is a practice that embraces risk and confronts the precariousness of life. Just as I advocated for a life lived on the edge, surfing places you on the precipice of danger and exhilaration. It is a reminder that embracing risk is a way of affirming life in all its complexity.

A Pull Quote for Contemplation

Let me leave you with a sentence to ponder, encapsulating the essence of this unconventional perspective:

“Surfing, in its dance with the absurd, its celebration of freedom, its invitation to live in the moment, and its embrace of risk, offers a path to existential fulfillment in a world that often defies reason.”

In conclusion, my dear friend, consider surfing as a hobby not as a mere pastime but as a philosophy—a way to confront the absurdity of existence, to rebel against the constraints of routine, to live in the present moment, and to embrace the inherent risks of life. In the waves, you may find a profound connection to the universe and a unique form of existential fulfillment.

With the spirit of rebellion,
Albert Camus