Thoughts on Surfing by renowned philosopher, Thomas Hobbes

I, Thomas Hobbes, renowned for my philosophical thoughts on human nature and society, shall now advocate for an unexpected pastime – surfing. While my works often delve into the nature of conflict and the need for social order, I believe that surfing, in its own way, can be a harmonious pursuit that aligns with my philosophy. Allow me to elucidate why you should consider surfing as a hobby, even from the perspective of a thinker who often contemplated the “state of nature” and human desires.

The Pursuit of Pleasure and Avoidance of Pain

In my theory, humans are primarily motivated by the pursuit of pleasure and the avoidance of pain. Surfing, I propose, offers a unique blend of pleasure and exhilaration:

• **Physical Pleasure**: The sensation of gliding on the water’s surface, the rush of the waves, and the feeling of weightlessness can provide intense physical pleasure, fulfilling the hedonistic aspect of human nature.
• **Escape from Monotony**: In our everyday lives, we often find ourselves trapped in the monotony of routines and obligations. Surfing breaks this cycle, offering an escape from the tedium of daily existence.

The Social Contract and Community

My social contract theory posits that individuals come together to form a society to escape the “state of nature,” where life is “solitary, poor, nasty, brutish, and short.” Surfing, although often an individual pursuit, also fosters a sense of community:

• **Surfing Communities**: Engaging in surfing can lead you to become part of a unique and passionate community of fellow surfers. It’s a society that shares a common interest in the ocean, waves, and the pursuit of the perfect ride.
• **Social Bonding**: Surfing often involves camaraderie and shared experiences, and the friendships forged in the waves can mirror the social bonds we seek in a larger society.

The State of Flow and Liberation

My philosophy often delves into the concept of freedom, and surfing, in its own way, provides a sense of liberation:

• **Flow State**: Surfing demands your full attention and presence in the moment. When riding a wave, you enter a state of flow, where worries and anxieties fade away, resembling the freedom from fear and want that a just society should provide.
• **Natural Forces**: Confronting the powerful forces of the ocean reminds us of our place in the grand scheme of nature, emphasizing the importance of living in harmony with the natural world.

Let me leave you with a sentence that encapsulates the essence of this perspective:

“Surfing, with its blend of pleasure, community, and the pursuit of liberation through flow, can be seen as a reflection of human desires and an escape from the everyday constraints of life.”

In conclusion, ladies and gentlemen, I urge you to consider surfing not as a mere hobby but as a pursuit that satisfies fundamental human inclinations – the pursuit of pleasure, the need for community, and the longing for freedom. In the waves, you may discover a profound connection to the essence of human nature and the pursuit of happiness.

With regard to human nature,
Thomas Hobbes